Fall into a theatrical reverie with Erdem Moralioğlu’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a poignant homage to the legendary opera soprano Maria Callas. This season, the designer delves into the depths of Callas’ life and persona, capturing both her onstage brilliance and her private vulnerabilities.
The show opens with a dramatic flourish: a pea green opera coat with an exaggerated collar, evoking a regal Callas commanding the stage. As the act progresses, opulent details unfold: roses adorn kitten heels and cocktail dresses, shimmering like adoring fans’ tributes. Quilted satin gowns reminiscent of 1950s housecoats hint at the duality of Callas’ public image: a glamorous pop icon adored by millions.
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Carmine red, the color of passion and tragedy, underscores the narrative. Slippers peek from beneath grand coats, a whisper of the private woman seeking solace after the curtain falls. Marabou feathers, once symbols of stage extravagance, appear disheveled, suggesting the unraveling of her persona.
The setting itself is a powerful statement. The British Museum’s Elgin Marbles, contested symbols of Greek heritage, resonate with Callas’ own displacement – born in America, trained in Greece, and celebrated globally. Moralioğlu evokes a sense of yearning for belonging, mirroring Callas’ personal struggles.
The collection culminates in a rose-printed satin gown, a quilted echo of the opening opera coat. It’s a poignant reminder of Callas’ enduring impact, her influence transcending time and place.
Read more: Dunhill Fall/Winter 2024 – London Fashion Week
©Photo: Erdem
