Charles de Vilmorin‘s Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection wasn’t your typical Parisian runway show. Forget elegant gowns and understated tailoring; this season, de Vilmorin transformed the catwalk into a theatrical stage for a fantastical murder mystery.
Drawing inspiration from Agatha Christie novels and Tim Burton’s gothic aesthetic, de Vilmorin presented a cast of characters more suited for a haunted mansion than a soiree. We saw witches in swirling jacquards, wicked stepsisters in feathered gowns, and a Little Red Riding Hood complete with a wolfish companion.
de Vilmorin, known for his whimsical and playful designs, embraced new techniques for this collection. Gone were his usual hand-painted fabrics; instead, his signature swirling motifs were translated into colorful jacquards, creating dramatic, bulbous silhouettes. Metalwork made an appearance, with a structural wire frame echoing one of his drawings brought to life in three dimensions. Millinery took center stage as well, with a showstopping floppy hat adorned with a cascade of horsehair fringe.
Functionality wasn’t a priority here. Corset-laced tops restricted movement, and the feathered headpieces and voluminous taffeta gowns seemed more suited for a grand entrance than a bustling city street. The models, including famed supermodel Noémie Lenoir, fully embodied their roles, slinking down the runway with a touch of theatricality.
The show’s finale featured a performance by prima ballerina Marie-Agnès Gillot. Shrouded in red fabric, she danced an interpretive piece to the song “Mon Amie la Rose” by the recently deceased French singer Françoise Hardy, a touching tribute from the designer, himself a former ballet student.
This collection marks a return to form for de Vilmorin, who recently designed the pop-up restaurant for Champagne house Moët & Chandon. After a period of self-doubt following his stint at Rochas, he seems to have rediscovered his creative spark. “All I want to do is have some fun,” he declared backstage, and that sense of playful theatricality permeated every aspect of this unforgettable show.
Read more: Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2024
©Photo: Charles de Vilmorin
