Blumarine embarks on a new chapter with Walter Chiapponi at the helm, marking a distinct departure from the brand’s recent Y2K-infused direction under Nicola Brognano. Chiapponi, a veteran who previously served under founder Anna Molinari, seeks to recapture the label’s essence of romantic femininity with a touch of contemporary pragmatism.
Chiapponi wasted no time in establishing his vision. “I completely immersed myself in the archive,” he shared backstage, “but I wanted to erase what happened in the nearer years.” His focus lies on reviving the romantic spirit that characterized Blumarine’s heyday, moving away from the social media-driven trends of the recent past.
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection serves as a love letter to Blumarine’s heritage. Signature elements like the rose motif and animalier prints reappear, reimagined in the context of Chiapponi’s more subtle and sophisticated aesthetic. Ethereal gowns adorned with delicate florals, pajama sets boasting the iconic rose pattern, and outerwear featuring leopard accents pay homage to the brand’s DNA, while remaining distinctly Chiapponi.
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Chiapponi’s Blumarine extends beyond traditional femininity. The collection embraces diverse personalities, offering a range of styles that cater to various tastes. From marabou-trimmed cardigans and floral appliqued minidresses to tomboyish maxi overshirts and delicate lace suits, the lineup celebrates individuality. Notably, the introduction of ten menswear looks marks a significant shift, reflecting Chiapponi’s desire to create a brand inclusive of all genders.
While Chiapponi’s intentions are clear, the collection feels like a work in progress. The desire to showcase a diverse range of ideas results in a multitude of aesthetics, leaving room for refinement as his vision for Blumarine crystallizes.
One thing remains certain: Blumarine’s new chapter is a return to romanticism, with Chiapponi’s love for the brand serving as a guiding force. As his creative vision takes shape, it will be intriguing to see which elements take center stage, solidifying Blumarine’s place in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
Read more: Walter Chiapponi takes the helm at Blumarine as new Creative director
©Photo: Blumarine
