The MM6 Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2025 show in Milan turned the runway into a study in contrasts, where precision met playfulness and classic tailoring collided with avant-garde experimentation. Models moved with deliberate slowness, their strides echoing the prowling confidence of ’90s icon Esther Cañadas, while censor-bar sunglasses added an air of mystery. The collection’s focus on proportions – expanding, reducing, reimagining – offered a fresh perspective on what a modern wardrobe can be.
The audience, including a notably late Ice Spice, witnessed garments that challenged expectations. Oversized wool coats and trenches featured vertical silk panels at the back, cleverly gathered to adjust silhouettes from dramatic to streamlined. Narrow suits and jackets took reduction to extremes, with spiky fabric fins and front closures rendered impractical, emphasizing form over function. Denim and trousers flaunted exposed seams, creating angular shapes that defied traditional cuts.
Military shirts and cropped trench coats stood rigid with detachable shoulder structures, adding sharpness to familiar pieces. Cable knits and striped polos gained architectural weight, while demure pencil skirts and boxy tunics in taupe wool nodded to Martin Margiela‘s Hermès-era restraint. Long leather gloves punctuated looks with polished glamour, proving that subtlety still speaks volumes.
The design team’s ethos – rooted in Margiela’s legacy of conceptual wearability – shone through technical ingenuity. Stretch-ribbed tops layered over second-skin dresses compressed outerwear, showcasing reduction through tension. Adjustable padded “hangers” expanded blazers and puffers, allowing wearers to effortlessly change volume. These innovations balanced engineering with elegance, eschewing showiness for thoughtful execution.
A soundtrack of Nico’s haunting vocals and Tamara Lund’s tango rhythms underscored the show’s “strong female energy,” mirroring the clothes’ blend of strength and softness. Silhouettes oscillated between assertive and understated, yet always anchored in wearability. Even experimental touches, such as tulle trapping shirts under dresses, felt intentional rather than forced.
©Photo: MM6 Maison Margiela
