Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2025 collection quietly captivated Milan with a meditation on practicality and artistry, channeling the understated power of choreographer Pina Bausch’s visual language. The runway, carpeted in crushed crimson petals, framed models in silk dresses, wool coats and furry flip-flops-a juxtaposition of elegance and lightness that reflected Bausch’s penchant for unpretentious yet evocative designs.
Davis avoided literal references to dance, instead focusing on Bausch’s recurring floral motifs. Delicate petal embroidery adorned ankle-strap sandals, while clusters of carnations adorned mesh dresses-a subtle nod to the choreographer’s use of flowers as emotional anchors in her work. The palette remained grounded in rich neutrals: blood red, camel, and stark black and white, allowing textures like shearling-trimmed lace and satin trench coats reimagined as dresses to command attention.
Tailoring emerged as a quiet star. Double-breasted topcoats and jersey blazers nodded to Bausch’s own utilitarian wardrobe, their fluid cuts allowing movement without sacrificing structure. Davis introduced sly surprises: the brand’s Hug bag hardware appeared as buckle details on leather jackets and as a double-pocket belt bag, fusing Ferragamo’s accessory legacy with pragmatic functionality.
Footwear balanced whimsy with wearability. Mid-heeled sandals featured flower-adorned toe straps, while fur-lined flip-flops-practical yet irreverent-left flower petals clinging to the soles. Feathers defied expectations, their quills reversed on skirts and bags to create disorienting textures.
This season marked Davis’ most coherent vision yet for Ferragamo. Avoiding overt theatrics, he focused on clothes that serve both the body and the imagination, a philosophy that echoes Bausch’s belief in the everyday resonance of art. The result feels less like a collection and more like a wardrobe built for those who value subtlety with substance.
©Photo: Ferragamo
