Marco Capaldo’s 16Arlington Fall/Winter 2025 collection reinterprets the bold spirit of the 1980s with a fresh, artistic edge. Breaking away from the traditional runway format of London Fashion Week, the designer unveiled his latest work through a striking lookbook shot in New York by Ethan James Green, followed by an intimate dinner in London where the pieces were worn by close collaborators. This shift reflects Capaldo’s desire to prioritize connection and immersion over the hustle and bustle of Fashion Month, a choice that allowed his bold designs to shine without distraction.
The collection channels the unapologetic glamour of the decade, mixing Lurex, sequins and shiny leathers with exaggerated proportions. Voluminous belted coats, swishy egg-shaped trousers and layered dresses with puffed skirts dominated the lineup, marking a departure from the brand’s signature sleek silhouettes. Structured shoulders and clashing hues nodded to power dressing, while sharp, needle-like sequins added a subversive twist. Capaldo described the approach as a playful exploration of “good and bad taste,” evident in logo-emblazoned belts paired with leather miniskirts and bright red lips that echoed Robert Palmer’s iconic “Addicted to Love” aesthetic.
Beyond the clothes, Capaldo continues to weave art into 16Arlington‘s identity. Collaborations with artist George Rouy and choreographer Sharon Eyal for Frieze Los Angeles, as well as an exhibition at Mayfair’s Almine Rech Gallery, underscore his growing alignment with contemporary art. These partnerships, he notes, have deepened his creative perspective and imbued the collection with a cinematic quality inspired by films such as “Paris, Texas” and “Blue Velvet.”
But the heart of the work remains wearability. Despite the theatricality of puff sleeves and paisley sequins, Capaldo emphasized versatility. “The ’80s erased rules about age or appropriateness,” he said. “I wanted that freedom here – clothes that make someone feel unstoppable.” The strategy resonated: days after our conversation, Cynthia Erivo wore one of the collection’s most extravagant gowns to the “Wicked” premiere in Tokyo, proving that even Capaldo’s boldest designs translate seamlessly into real-world glamour.
©Photo: 16Arlington
