LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi Spring/Summer 2025 - Paris Fashion Week Men’s

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In his LGN Louis-Gabriel Nouchi Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi delves into the dark depths of human nature, drawing inspiration from Patrick Süskind’s haunting novel “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.” The book’s visceral descriptions of scent and sensation serve as a potent muse for Nouchi’s exploration of desire, violence, and sensuality through the medium of fabric and form.

Nouchi translates the novel’s olfactory obsessions into tactile expressions, wrapping models in waxed leathers, silky jerseys, and evocative jacquards. A splatter motif, created in collaboration with French artist Sasha Ferré, hints at blood, paint, or spilled perfume, adding an unsettling undercurrent to the collection’s sleek surfaces. Pinstripes morph into leather bands and vertical slashes, nodding to the work of Lucio Fontana while focusing the eye on texture and skin.

Strict silhouettes in a narrow palette of black, oxblood, and white reflect the protagonist’s fixations, lending the models an air of elegant menace. Nouchi’s decision to keep cuts on the formal side allows the fabrics to take center stage, highlighting their sensual fluidity and meticulous construction. The result is a masterclass in murderous tailoring that speaks volumes without saying a word.

This season marks a shift for Nouchi as he moves beyond his signature exposed skin and literary references to focus on a more subtle sensuality. The expansion into womenswear, with 27 looks that embrace an alluring androgyny, demonstrates the designer’s evolving vision. Collaborations with Puma and Ecco Kollektive showcase Nouchi’s ability to maintain his brand’s essence while exploring new territories.

As Louis-Gabriel Nouchi steps out of the “emerging designer” shadow, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection proves that his talent for crafting clothes that provoke both the senses and the imagination is only growing stronger. With an unflinching eye and a deft hand, he has created a wardrobe for those who understand that fashion, like scent, has the power to intoxicate, seduce, and unsettle in equal measure.