Acne Studios has always been a haven for fashion’s misfits, but Jonny Johansson’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection marks a coming of age. Rooted in adolescent obsessions, the lineup revolves around using clothing as armor to project a superhero persona.
It’s not about literal superhero garb, but an attitude, Johansson explains. “He’s not a virgin anymore.” In a season of conservative cuts, Acne remains committed to risk-taking. Inspired by the revolution in men’s dressing that has shattered gender norms, “everything is changed,” Johansson marvels. “Fashion changes all the time, but not drastically like that.”
In this brave new world, printed skivvies peek out from sheer trenches, suit jackets top cycling shorts, and shredded knit crop tops meet Acne’s signature supersize canvas pants in trompe-l’oeil denim. An official collaboration with DC Comics emblazons Wonder Woman, Catwoman and other femme fatales across pieces. “Women are the real superheroes – or they have more superpowers at least,” Johansson quips. “They’re violent but in another way.”
Fetishwear undertones surface in silicone-piped suiting and hole-punched short-shorts. Elsewhere, ingenious printed “denim” returns, some festooned with illusion chains and charms or stacked with studded belts. Cargo pants flow in fluid fabrics, warm-up pants zip up supple leather sides, and a near-christened “Photoshopper” camera bag makes its debut. Nostalgic second-skin mesh tops brandish Johansson’s ’90s band logo. His superpower? “Guitars. You can listen to music, but you can also make music and live music.”
Unveiled at Acne’s grand new Paris HQ, a 19th-century mansion meets former pharma lab, the collection captures a fun, frisky spirit. In Johansson’s world, we can all dress the part of sexy rockstars and superheroes.
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©Photo: Acne Studios
