For his Spring/Summer 2025 collection at Marni, Francesco Risso sought to capture the essence of beauty in its purest form. The setting, the designer’s own atelier on Viale Umbria, was stripped back, reflecting the collection’s focus on essential elements. The usual Fashion Week frenzy was absent, replaced by a sense of quiet anticipation. In this austere yet evocative setting, Risso presented a collection that was both understated and stunningly beautiful.
Risso’s exploration of beauty began with the fabric. He chose to work exclusively with cotton, a material he described as “honest” and “everlasting.” Through a series of innovative techniques, Risso transformed this humble material into a tapestry of textures and shapes. From crisp, tailored silhouettes to ethereal, featherweight gowns, the collection showcased the versatility of cotton in the hands of a master.
The show unfolded like a carefully orchestrated ritual, moving from simple daywear to increasingly elaborate evening looks. Early pieces featured sleek lines and a muted palette, with pops of black and white providing graphic contrast. As the show progressed, the silhouettes became more voluminous and the embellishments more elaborate. Risso’s signature oversized jackets were paired with fitted skirts, their hems intricately ruffled to evoke the glamour of 1950s couture. Whimsical hats, some reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn’s iconic style, added a touch of playful elegance.
The collection culminated in a series of extraordinary evening gowns that left the audience breathless. Bold floral prints, delicate cotton embroidery and shimmering crystal accents transformed these gowns into wearable works of art. Risso’s ability to balance opulence with restraint was evident in every detail, creating a sense of modern sophistication that was both captivating and deeply personal.
Read more: 16Arlington Spring/Summer 2025 – London Fashion Week
©Photo: Marni
